the allen screws a little at a time until the cross hair stayed
on the stop sign.
Now put the counterweight and OTA on and look through
the OTA eyepiece to see if it points to the stop sign. Mine
did not... it was way off. Use the manuals Fig.40 on Page
49 to locate the allen bolts used to attach the dovetail to
the tube rings. These bolts will raise or lower the angle of
the OTA to the RA axis. Adjust these until the stop sign is
centered in the OTA eyepiece. Your tube should now point
to the same spot as your polarscope. Verify this by looking
through both eyepieces while moving from position A to B.
You can use any target you wish, Polaris even, but I found
it easier to do this in the daytime and the stop sign was
convenient. Appendix B Page 48 Axis Alignment Proce-
dure covers basically the same thing, these are just my
interpretations and findings.
Now, after a quick polar alignment, and then an easy align-
ment, my scope brings objects within the field of view of
the 26mm eyepiece. Im sure if I used targets that are fur-
ther away it would get even better.
Courtesy of: Mickey Smith
POLAR ALIGNMENT - SHORT VERSION:
1) set up tripod and mount sans scope with star leg point-
ing north
2) level mount using tripod legs and bubble level (sold sepa-
rately!)
3) adjust azimuth and latitude using mounts knobs and
T-handles (push-pull) to put Polaris on the polar scope
reticle. See manual Page 48
4) attach OTA and test for orthogonality on both sides of
RA axis for extra credit
5) use drift align method for super polar precision (not
necessary)
6) Relax and enjoy the views!
ORTHOGONALITY & ALIGNMENT: Orthogonality is just tech talk
for how well the scope and axes are aligned. Your manual
describes the procedure for tweaking the adjusting screws
where the scope mounts to the saddle. Drift alignment is
not needed for GoTo, and is used mostly for imaging. Polar
alignment is easier with the telescope removed. By level-
ing the mount, Autostar has the best chance of putting
alignment stars in the field of view (FOV). Please keep in
mind that the advertised GoTo precision is only 15 arc
minutes, which is 1/2 the diameter of the Moon.
Courtesy of: CS - Otto
ALIGNING THE POLARSCOPE WITH T HE MOUNT: Level the tripod.
Without the OTA and counterweight shaft attached, put a
level on the saddle plate were the OTA attaches, adjust
the latitude to zero, then fine adjust the latitude until it is
level. You should now be able to rotate the saddle plate
360 and be level in all directions.
Rotate RA 90 degrees so the counterweight shaft, which
can now be reinstalled, is parallel to the ground.
Place the level in the saddle against the side that has the
attachment screws and level this parallel to the floor. Ad-
just the declination setting circle to read 90 degrees.
Rotate DEC using the setting circle to read 90 minus Your
Latitude. For me that is 90 - 30 = 60.
Now adjust the latitude bolt until the level (Still in the
saddle plate) is level again.
All of the above will give you a more accurate latitude ad-
justment. It is not hard once you understand how it goes.
Put the OTA on the mount and get a good alignment on
the finder scope. Use the AZ fine controls to align Polaris
with the vertical cross-hair. Depending on the time and
position, you will be out of adjustment in Azimuth by as
much as .85 degrees, but that is okay for now.
When you align Autostar do not worry about centering on
the two stars it locates just press enter to accept them.
Once the alignment is complete, do a GOTO on Polaris,
then using the Fine Azimuth Control and the Latitude
Adjustment center the telescope on Polaris. This will take
the .85 error out. Next GOTO another star like VEGA, cen-
ter it in the telescope, and press the ENTER key until a
message that says Press Enter to Synch appears, this
will synchronize the scope given the fact that it was moved
in AZ and LAT.
I have only used this method twice so far but can align
without the POLAR scope and best of all, I am NAILING
everything in the center of the EP at 50X and 1 deg.
POLAR HOME POSITION & SETTING CIRCLES: In PHP the DEC is
at 90 degrees, and RA varies depending upon where Po-
laris is relative to NCP. When you GOTO Polaris from PHP,
the scope moves slightly to a DEC of 89.15 from the origi-
nal 90 Degree position. Think of Polaris rotating around
NCP like the hands on a clock. After you do a GOTO on
Polaris, you could calibrate the RA setting circle if you like,
but that will change depending on the time. Consider all
of the different RA positions you have seen when looking
at Polaris, yet they are all RA 2:31:51. In short, Relative to
PHP, DEC is fixed and RA is variable.
Courtesy of: Randy Rourke
POINTING ACCURACY & OPTICAL / MECHANICAL ALIGNMENT: I was
having some initial pointing accuracy issues with my 8"
SNT. Most of my problems seemed to be related to the fact
that the optical axis of the scope and the mechanical axes
of the mount were not properly aligned from the factory.
There is a procedure (two of them actually) in the back of
the Autostar manual that describes how to make this ad-
justment in the daytime. However, I find it easily checked
and tweaked at night right before doing my polar align-
ment.
8
Kommentare zu diesen Handbüchern